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reviewed by Anne Garber
Rossini's Gastown
Rossini's Kits Beach
$$$
Surely Rossini's must be one of Vancouver's great little secrets, since it offers the rare combination of convivial family dining alongside some of the best live jazz stylings in the world. Long-time supporters of the Vancouver International Jazz Festival and a host of individual talents, Arni May and his family all hail from professional performing backgrounds.
Musician Linton Garner was more than just a world-acclaimed jazz musician to the May family; in Arni's words: He was like a father to me, he was actually a member of the family." Linton Garner passed away in March, 2003, and it's safe to say there can be no replacement in the lives of the May family for his warm spirit and forgiving nature. However, his memory is celebrated still in both locations of Rossini's -- places that he considered a second home.
Besides the comfortable and welcoming ambience, the food is superb -- and the clientele (you can always judge the quality of a "local secret" by the number of regulars who visit from the neighbourhood) is appreciative of both the musical aspects of the place, and the food. Many guests are greeted like old friends -- because that's just what they are.
Rossini's Saturday afternoon jazz sessions are an unbelievable mix of world talent -- plus it's an exciting (yet unintimidating) environment in which to meet old -- and new -- friends. How many times we've heard: "Okay, well we'll probably see you over at Rossini's Saturday aft, right?"
Here's a story I like to tell about how I discovered Rossini's, many years ago:
I met Faye McMyn more than a decade ago, when I was working as marketing director for the Max Wyman Dance Company and Faye was in charge of their fund raising. She was as much fun then as she is today, and I swear she hasn't aged a day. My envy is somewhat mitigated by love and admiration.
At that time, Faye was the guiding force behind the launch of Vancouver's new library, so our lunch meeting required refined and discreet surroundings. We went to Rossini's Pasta Palazzo, a lucky guess.
In fact, our good luck was extraordinary, right off the bat, because we each found parking spots in front of the place -- and locating parking anywhere near Kits beach is a tacit blessing for any meal.
At lunch, as it turns out, the restaurant is quiet, comfortable, and welcoming. Our luck held, and we were given a prime table, next to the little fireplace. Faye offered: "I like the feeling of this room. It's cosy and it just feels good."
Our French waitress was attentive and sweet. The food was excellent, fresh and served promptly. Food presentation was very good; everything looked delicious. And it was.
We split everything: Orders of Rossini's famous black sambuca prawns, spicy bruschetta, and penne with hot peppers and rich tomato sauce.
Our meal cost $40 for two of us, including drinks, GST and a generous tip for our lovely waitress.
The following week, I heard from actress Frances Bay, who was coming to Vancouver to film a couple episodes of The Commish. My colleague at the time (and now husband) John and I met her in the Slovak Republic when we were there working on a film in which she was one of the main characters. The subject of the film? Rossini! So, of course, we had to go back to Rossini's with Frances after dark to check out the night-time scene.
In the evening, the atmosphere is completely changed. I might even say it's "as different as night and day." It's packed with a happy, enthusiastic group of locals (mainly couples and after-work singles from the Kits area), and there's an upbeat music scene of local jazz greats.
Despite the time that John and I spent getting to know Frances earlier, we never knew what a jazz lover she was. She was simply delighted with the music of Linton Garner (who was still alive at the time, of course).
Again, the food was superb, from the veal-wrapped prawns to the fresh pasta, headed by music impresario Arni May and his three sons, Shane, Stephen and Mark. We met the whole family.
I understand that Frances, who felt like she was part of that family after one visit, took her husband back for a repeat dinner, after he arrived in town to join her later that week. Yes, Rossini's has seen a lot of our business. And they will certainly see us again.
Highly recommended for either lunch or dinner -- and we hear they do a wonderful brunch.
In summary: From pasta dishes to seafood and meat specialties, Rossini's provides a wonderful ambience for a group of friends or large parties. Established as a home-away-from-home, Rossini's combines warm atmosphere, friendly service and wonderful "home cooked Italian cuisine." At Rossini's, they take great pride in their two locations and the May family welcomes everyone to their warm and casual atmosphere.
Review exclusive to evalu8.org by Anne Garber
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