Review by Anne Garber

166 Bedford Road
Toronto, ON
416-921-0995
website

This local secret offers outstanding French bistro-style fare in Toronto's centre. Recommended items include the melted Brie appetizer and herb-roasted chicken. The atmosphere is casual and the wine choices are unique. University types, writers, and actors from the surrounding neighbourhood come to this authentic French bistro-on-a-budget for the ambience and modestly priced wine list. Even my hard-to-please parents love this place!

La Paradis is a true hidden gem in Toronto. The service is very friendly, albeit a little slow on busy nights. Reservations are recommended (see below).

The atmosphere here contributes at least half of the experience: Opt for the room directly at the end of the restaurant, as opposed to the sunken room to the right (from where you enter). The far room more closely resembles a Left Bank bôite than any Toronto eatery that I have visited.

Steak and fries, the aforementioned crisp herb-roasted chicken, and exotic tajine de volaille (a Moroccan stew of chicken, prunes, olives, and a plethora of seasonings) get the creative juices flowing. Owner/Proprietor is David Currie; Chef de Cuisine is Craig Domville.

Don't overlook the daily pris-fixe menu and be sure to check out the daily chalkboard specials, as you enter.

We visited for Mother's Day (a hint: for special occasions, arrive when they open at 5:30 or risk disappointment -- or a ridiculously long wait), and in our group of four (including TWO mothers), we tried the Provimi calf's liver-bacon-and-onions, with demi-glace (superb), the Truite aux Amandes (Rainbow trout with almonds), and a mélange of shellfish, calamari and other seafood (the dish is called "Bourride à la Provençale") -- perfect for the non-meat-eater in our group; my daughter's only "regret" -- once she spied the sumptuous servings at the table next to us -- was that she hadn't ordered a regular entrée, as the side dishes were brilliant. I had a large scoop of wonderfully flavourful squash, a mound of whipped potatoes, and a hefty serving of greens.

For dessert, we four shared a trio of freshly house-made sorbets: pineapple; papaya and raspberry, positively radiant in their flavour.

The bill -- for four hungry adults -- came to a modest $85, including generous tip, beverages and usurious stipends for Messrs McGuinty and Martin (ie taxes).

Hours: Lunch, Tuesday to Friday, noon to 3:00 p.m.; Dinner, Sunday & Monday, 5:30 to 10:00 p.m.; Tuesday to Friday, 6:00 to 11:00 p.m.; and Saturday, 5:30 to 11:00 p.m.

Major credit cards accepted. Reservations recommended.